"Help!" for: Papercraft or Pepakura

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I understand completely. It is very tricky and at times frustrating when learning a new technique/skill.
Checked out the video and I don't think you should be so hard on yourself. We all started somewhere and I am sure even though we don't always show them (we're not all as brave as you), everyone has a pretty rough first go.

In regards to scoring, I am guessing by looking at it that you used an exacto knife to score. If you are struggling with it, I honestly think a sharp pen (I use a 0.5 size pen). If the knife way comes easily to you it can be a little bit better, but I just find the pens work a lot nicer because you can use a straightedge more easily with pens.

In regards to the warping, I can see that a lot of it has to do with your gluing process. Warping usually happens when you have something off alignment at point A and it causes a ripple effect to throw off and warp point B later on. Essentially, if the top of the helmet is not well aligned, it can cause the middle or bottom to warp as they try and accommodate that misaligned spot which gets worse the further away from it you get. When gluing pep pieces together, you need to ensure the numbers line up before the glue dries. When lining them up, you go from the outer edge of the number set... say for 107, you would go from the leftmost "hat" on the 1 to the rightmost elbow on the 7, thinking of it as a box like that with it lined up with the numbers on the other piece. The numbers are alignment points to make sure the pieces are properly placed. If you can get them down right it will greatly reduce the warping. However there may be some still from the thickness of the cardstock throwing it off also. In general though, if the warping isn't too bad, you can force it out by continuing to build, as future pieces can hold the warped parts in place a bit better.

I think much of the talk of popsicle sticks and stuff was assuming you were already finished with the piece as they can be used to hold the piece in the correct position.

I suggest probably starting over and making sure it lines up well. It can be helpful to practice on low-def versions of helmets as they will have bigger pieces and build in less time so you can get some experience finishing a piece that is a bit easier to work with, the details on HD and MD pieces can really make it hard to align! Keep up the good work though, I promise you are doing a lot better than I did my first time with pepakura, so don't be so hard on yourself! I know it can be frustrating but that's learning, you struggle a bit at first but as you get experience with the skills needed it becomes easier and easier.

Also, I know someone else will anyways, so I'll throw in the obligatory "If you are struggling too much with pep, try foam". It IS easier to work with, but I do think a well trained pepakura build can get some amazing results, foam is great for quickly making mid-level armor, but there needs to be an artistic background to really get the most out of foam. Pep and Bondo is a bit more of an industrial skill which has a harder initial skill, but quickly becomes easier to work with as you get more comfortable with it.
 
I finally got a chance to explain. Please don't criticize me for not having such a passion In pep. I do, I really do. it's just my first time and everything seems really hard.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=4441441413370&l=8608063885940915143
You know, for most of us here, our first attempt probably wasn't much better than yours. Sure, some people just seem to have the 'knack' - but for the rest of us - it's progress by failure. We didn't all start out with amazing passion and skill in pep, it's definitely something that grows as you go.

As Katsu mentioned, the main cause of the warping/wonkiness on this might have compounded during the assembly.
Some quick tips?
-Use one of your spare blades as an edge to fold against. This works really well on valley folds. I use this technique instead of scoring.
-When aligning tabs, you want to match up the middle of the number group. So for 2-digits, like 47 - imagine a line down the middle (4|7) and align that on both sides of the flap/edge.
-If you are working on a long piece, and you realise right at the end flap, it doesn't line up like it should - pull the previous tabs apart before the glue sets and try again. It's less work in the long run, and you catch errors before they compound.
-Build in sections. The around the visor is a really good place to start. If it looks the wrong size when you hold it up, it probably is the wrong size.
-If you are going to start over, don't hold on to the old version for too long - it will only remind you of where you didn't succeed.

Yes, because we were running on guesswork and assumption, most of the popstick stuff was because we thought you'd finished.

Most importantly, don't give up - it's totally worth it in the end.
MS7
 
SDC12634_zps7cb91b50.jpg


I believe this is what is meant by using sticks to keep the straight parts from warping. This was my first real pep and a practice for me (FUD Helmet that is a little on the large side). However, I used craft sticks to glue in to keep the straight parts from warping too badly when I resin it. The resin will not bend the sticks and will actually soak into them like it does to the fiberglass.

Since the wood is a solid, even when wet (you don't see saggy popsicles), it will keep them from bending or warping under the weight of the resin, thus keeping those faces generally warp-free. For the smaller areas, you can also use square wood toothpicks.
 
I understand completely. It is very tricky and at times frustrating when learning a new technique/skill.
Checked out the video and I don't think you should be so hard on yourself. We all started somewhere and I am sure even though we don't always show them (we're not all as brave as you), everyone has a pretty rough first go.

In regards to scoring, I am guessing by looking at it that you used an exacto knife to score. If you are struggling with it, I honestly think a sharp pen (I use a 0.5 size pen). If the knife way comes easily to you it can be a little bit better, but I just find the pens work a lot nicer because you can use a straightedge more easily with pens.

In regards to the warping, I can see that a lot of it has to do with your gluing process. Warping usually happens when you have something off alignment at point A and it causes a ripple effect to throw off and warp point B later on. Essentially, if the top of the helmet is not well aligned, it can cause the middle or bottom to warp as they try and accommodate that misaligned spot which gets worse the further away from it you get. When gluing pep pieces together, you need to ensure the numbers line up before the glue dries. When lining them up, you go from the outer edge of the number set... say for 107, you would go from the leftmost "hat" on the 1 to the rightmost elbow on the 7, thinking of it as a box like that with it lined up with the numbers on the other piece. The numbers are alignment points to make sure the pieces are properly placed. If you can get them down right it will greatly reduce the warping. However there may be some still from the thickness of the cardstock throwing it off also. In general though, if the warping isn't too bad, you can force it out by continuing to build, as future pieces can hold the warped parts in place a bit better.

I think much of the talk of popsicle sticks and stuff was assuming you were already finished with the piece as they can be used to hold the piece in the correct position.

I suggest probably starting over and making sure it lines up well. It can be helpful to practice on low-def versions of helmets as they will have bigger pieces and build in less time so you can get some experience finishing a piece that is a bit easier to work with, the details on HD and MD pieces can really make it hard to align! Keep up the good work though, I promise you are doing a lot better than I did my first time with pepakura, so don't be so hard on yourself! I know it can be frustrating but that's learning, you struggle a bit at first but as you get experience with the skills needed it becomes easier and easier.

Also, I know someone else will anyways, so I'll throw in the obligatory "If you are struggling too much with pep, try foam". It IS easier to work with, but I do think a well trained pepakura build can get some amazing results, foam is great for quickly making mid-level armor, but there needs to be an artistic background to really get the most out of foam. Pep and Bondo is a bit more of an industrial skill which has a harder initial skill, but quickly becomes easier to work with as you get more comfortable with it.

Thanks. I will retry as of today. What mk6 file do you recommend?
 
Ah... I haven't built one myself, I'd try taking a look at them and seeing if maybe one of the others has a better patterning in spots you found difficult with your current build.

From a glance I liked the look of flyingsquirrel and robogenesis.
 
I'm down in San Jose usually but I pass through SF for work and visiting family in Marin. I know SoMa is a bit of a schlepp for you, but the TechShop SF is a pretty fun place to expand your horizons with prop making. The ShopBot, Vacuum Former, 3d printers, and especially the Laser Cutters offer great tools that can open new possibilities. Justinian's stuff (which is awesome looking) is made with laser cutters, I do my visors and star wars stuff on the ShopBot and vac-form, it's a lot of fun. I don't know of your age/income/interests, but if you get the chance it's worth at least a free tour sometime.
 
Ok. Will def. be checking up on that. What helmet do you recommend to pep as a beginner like me? I might retry the Mk VI but ROBOGENESIS style. I was considering maybe doing a Reach EOD, H3 ODST, or Jorge. Help me out. Thanks.

Your pep looks amazing BTW.
 
The ODST is a pretty easy one. There are really low def ones, but if you want a good easy level HD then ODST is an option.

Alternatively, you can just keep taking a crack at the one you WANT to make, which I suggest. Better to work at a first choice to keep you more motivated.
 
The ODST is a pretty easy one. There are really low def ones, but if you want a good easy level HD then ODST is an option.

Alternatively, you can just keep taking a crack at the one you WANT to make, which I suggest. Better to work at a first choice to keep you more motivated.

Thanks. I still need a simple but good looking MK IV, so that means that not too many tiny folds, but medium enough so it doesn't seem like playing Halo on Legendary without dying.
 
Actually, someone was just asking about a file and when I looked it seemed like a bit easier of a mk6 to build, so you may want to head over to the DB and check out the DF4L version. It's lower def to not have a lot of tiny pieces, but still has enough detail that it's obvious what it is.
 
Hey folks, I think I'm getting the scaling wrong on my H4 MC helmet. Right now the height on the scale is 270mm, but I just cut out a piece (underneath the brim that goes around the visor) and it looks oddly small.

Anyone got a nice clear tutorial? Can't find one on here.
 
Thanks. I will try it out.

Quick question, Robogenesis ver. or DF4L?
The DF4L is an easier build but lacks some details you can add later. I'd say if you want to get less stressful practice at building, that one might be good to try, your choice though, look at both models and see if you like one more.

Hey folks, I think I'm getting the scaling wrong on my H4 MC helmet. Right now the height on the scale is 270mm, but I just cut out a piece (underneath the brim that goes around the visor) and it looks oddly small.

Anyone got a nice clear tutorial? Can't find one on here.

There is one on here in the creation discussion stickies:
http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/31627-HaloGoddess-quot-How-To-Scale-quot-and-More-Tutorial
 
Hey guys. I recently made a Mk VI, and it turned out ok for a first build, but I am not satisfied. the helmet is crooked, has holes and many gluing imperfections. How do I prevent this in my next build?
 
Hey guys, I'm having trouble with scaling the codpiece for my mk VI... I have tried a few different scaling methods now that I have found from different tutorials but one came out way too small, and the other is bigger than the other one is small! Could anyone give me some advice on how to fix this or point me to another tute? It would be greatly appreciated for third time to be the charm :)
 
Hey guys. I recently made a Mk VI, and it turned out ok for a first build, but I am not satisfied. the helmet is crooked, has holes and many gluing imperfections. How do I prevent this in my next build?

What kind of glue are you using? I'm currently building my first mk. VI and I'm finding the same issues using hot glue. I've been looking around at some other builds on here and Elmers glue seems to be a popular choice ( which is a PVA glue I think?? It looks like it allows for a flatter hold and gives a bit of time to slide into the correct spot :)
 
I've had that problem too, it was always the collar piece that was hanging WAY too low (wich makes it look like the chest part was a set of female breast* sigh) or just too thight. So I figured I'd scale down or up from my last scales I had used and had found most accurate (btw you should defenitly keep track of the scales you used in a notebook or on a piece of paper!), and when I was almost certain it was the right fit I printed the neck/collar ONLY to quickly craft that piece and see if it's too thight or loose. You can always get in frot of a mirror and invision the rest of the chest piece on you as you stand there looking at yourself, it should not necessarily be the neck part though.. you can also cut out other pieces as well and look for a good scaling image in the mirror. Anyways, the neck part was surely enough for me.. TIP: don't push the paper pieces directly onto your body, keep it floating so you have room for padding!
 
I use a basic hobby glue, it's a brand called "UHU creativ: Craft glue for cardboard & craftpaper". It does give you some more time to put te pieces in place and it's VERY effective for pepakura builds. If you want to avoid the holes: try cutting more carefully (As this was a mistake I made, rushing into it and being impatient about results) , if that doesn't work you can always use less glue and then refill your holes and gaps from the inside wich makes the construction a lot stronger as well.
 
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