"Help!" for: Papercraft or Pepakura
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I'm sorry, my reply was meant to fall under the "reply with quote" to 2 different questions, didn't spot it at first.. D'oh.
Daedric thigh problem
Hello.
I have a problem with my Daedric thigh files. Some edges haven't flaps and edge id. I tried to fix this by edit flap tool, but i have no idea how to add edge id. Can someone fix my files and explain to my, how to do it next time ?
http://www9.zippyshare.com/v/18833278/file.html
Hello.
I have a problem with my Daedric thigh files. Some edges haven't flaps and edge id. I tried to fix this by edit flap tool, but i have no idea how to add edge id. Can someone fix my files and explain to my, how to do it next time ?
http://www9.zippyshare.com/v/18833278/file.html
RedGhost
Active Member
When I opened your file there waren't edges at all. I think it is just an poorly made model with tiny invisible air spaces in between the parts. It is not that the flaps are off or something, they just don't connect, even when hovering over a side. Idk what's wrong, but it is not the settings op him. I'd surgest downloading another version or from another modelor. Else: Print out and draw your own edges.
What kind of glue are you using? I'm currently building my first mk. VI and I'm finding the same issues using hot glue. I've been looking around at some other builds on here and Elmers glue seems to be a popular choice ( which is a PVA glue I think?? It looks like it allows for a flatter hold and gives a bit of time to slide into the correct spot
I'm using some Gorilla Super Glue, it's way better than normal SG because it's not too watery, and dries in 30 seconds. I also started scoring my work, so right now the pep looks pretty clean, but some of the parts that I made just seems to be not in shape so much so I have to shape it a little before I glue it like the visor.
Ral Partha
Sr Member
The unfolder was probably preparing the file as a foam template but changed mind at the last minute, which is why the flaps are missing. Anyway, go to 2D Menu and clip on both "Show Flaps" and "Show Edge ID." That will solve your problem.
This tip is a bit less obvious, I am not chastising but letting you know a nifty one for future use since it's not labeled. This forum has a "multi quote" system to quote multiple people in a single reply (I am using it for this post). There is a quote bubble with a + to the right of "Reply with quote" This is the multi quote button! You click it for every post you want to quote, and then on the last one click "reply with quote" and it will add all of them to that one post! A great way to reply to multiple people.
I also find that Elmer's Glue works quite well and for dirt cheap. I've resined objects with it and the normal white glue doesn't seem to dissolve when exposed to the resin (Some glues WILL, so be careful when trying new ones out). Gorilla is a nice strong option though, I'll have to try it out sometime.
Yeah. Make sure you use the super glue kind though, because gorilla glue expands when it dries, so its pretty much terrible for pepping.
Hey katsu, do you think that if I resin inside my basement warm tempurature, wi itncure? I read in a post and you saod that you had to postpone one of your projects because of cold weather since you live in SF, and i live in sf too so...
You are never supposed to resin indoors unless you have access to a fume hood. It will stink up the entire house, even from the basement. What's worse, the fumes are toxic, you need the outside air to waft it away.
SF doesn't get that cold in the summer. When the temperature drops below like 50-60 degrees there is a struggle to get resin to cure. I know the weather here has been pretty mixed bag, cloudy one day, hot the next, rainy the next, blistering the next. If it's a cloudy day and the temperature is like 55 degrees, you can get away with resining, you just need to mix in more MEKP catalyst and work quickly. By using more, it speeds up the cure time so it solidifies in the mix cup quicker, but it will also be able to cure at lower temperatures. If it's 65+ degrees, I'd just do normal amounts. Really, it's only hard to do fiberglass during the SF winter (Like January to April). I listen to the news on the way from Marin to SJ if my podcasts are used up, and the weather usually reports SF being well within the temperature zone resin works at most of the day.
Hope that answered the question!
SF doesn't get that cold in the summer. When the temperature drops below like 50-60 degrees there is a struggle to get resin to cure. I know the weather here has been pretty mixed bag, cloudy one day, hot the next, rainy the next, blistering the next. If it's a cloudy day and the temperature is like 55 degrees, you can get away with resining, you just need to mix in more MEKP catalyst and work quickly. By using more, it speeds up the cure time so it solidifies in the mix cup quicker, but it will also be able to cure at lower temperatures. If it's 65+ degrees, I'd just do normal amounts. Really, it's only hard to do fiberglass during the SF winter (Like January to April). I listen to the news on the way from Marin to SJ if my podcasts are used up, and the weather usually reports SF being well within the temperature zone resin works at most of the day.
Hope that answered the question!
RobotChicken
Well-Known Member
Elmer's white glue shrinks a little when it dries, which helps pull parts together for tighter seams and corners. I've exploited this characteristic at times to get a corner perfectly angular.
Sorry.. I figured that since one was to ask a question and one was to respond to a question it would be appropriate. I'll remember for next time
RedGhost
Active Member
Are you printing on A4 or LETTER? Most models are made for LETTER. You need to go in the printer settings and change it to your paper kind. (A4/LETTER). Then if you look right most of the pieces are out of the lines. It is simply a matter of drag and drop to just place em back in their position. If something doesn't fit, search for another place where it does. Also, make sure you are printing on cardstock. The best is 110 lbs/175gms.
nerdtron99
Member
im certainly not new to pepakura as you all know, but i recently encoutered a problem, when i go to print something, it doesnt print the page number! i have the "print page number" box checked but it still wont print the page number.anyone know why that is?
OG DRAGON072
New Member
To answer Dorksrus's question, also be sure to change your printer setting from "Portrait" to "Landscape" if the pages are lined up horizontal, instead of vertical.
I don't have my printer with me to test it, but Try also turning on the show page numbers option in the 2d menu (as well as the show page numbers option in the print settings). Just a guess.
also with just using pep viewer-
how do i get the ID nos to the inside and not the outside.
and how do you scale using viewer. not seeing a whole lot of options. my thought was to print out on plain paper and then copy each piece at 95% or whatever it will be since i have a copy/printer.
any help without having to buy the designer?
how do i get the ID nos to the inside and not the outside.
and how do you scale using viewer. not seeing a whole lot of options. my thought was to print out on plain paper and then copy each piece at 95% or whatever it will be since i have a copy/printer.
any help without having to buy the designer?
Carpathia
Sr Member
You cannot scale using Viewer. That's why I suggest using Designer. You do not have to buy Designer in order to use it. The only things you cannot do with Designer without the key is save and export. If you wish to maintain a re-scaled pep after organizing it, you can always print to PDF. I used the free version of Designer for a few years before I decided to purchase the key. It made sense for me since I use it pretty heavily. For the casual user, the free version is more than adequate.
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