"Help!" for: Papercraft or Pepakura
- Thread starter 23Magnum
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Which parts of the scout? I know the helmet is easily accessible, you should also poke around the 3d Modeling area and search through there.
Look in the Pepakura Requests thread, and the Halo 4 Pepakura thread:
http://www.405th.com/forumdisplay.php/28-3D-Modeling
Those are the second best places to look for the files. First best is the http://405th.4shared.com database, which I can't seem to get to load.
Look in the Pepakura Requests thread, and the Halo 4 Pepakura thread:
http://www.405th.com/forumdisplay.php/28-3D-Modeling
Those are the second best places to look for the files. First best is the http://405th.4shared.com database, which I can't seem to get to load.
The Scout files i need are the chest, helmet, and shoulders. I found the shoulder piece but the chest and helmet are no where. I checked the links and forms like you said and I have visited the 405th 4 shared a lot and got most of all the files I need and scout isn't there.
I know more now than I did then!
http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/13671-Pepakura-Requests/page295
http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/39362-File-it-under-Crimmson/page12
Those two threads cover the scout armor.
http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/13671-Pepakura-Requests/page295
http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/39362-File-it-under-Crimmson/page12
Those two threads cover the scout armor.
Thank you
I found the chest piece but still no luck on the helmet. I'm so glad someone is helping me and everyone for build to be possible.
I found the chest piece but still no luck on the helmet. I'm so glad someone is helping me and everyone for build to be possible.
RobotChicken
Well-Known Member
Is there a common (or at least popular) color-coding convention among 405th members for denoting mountain vs. valley folds in Pepakura files? Is it red for mountain and blue for valley...?
RobotChicken
Well-Known Member
I have no knowledge at all about Red vs Blue (aside from occasional mention of it in threads) but I have seen photos in other threads where people have used red and blue so I think I'll go with that. (It's actually for highlighting folds to implement vs folds to ignore within a photo tutorial rather than line style within the file.) Thanks!
gin tekidan
New Member
and I thought it was because those are the two easily available colors in ballpoint at office stores, but thats a good idea for improvising too
Jackablade
New Member
Hey chaps
I'm currently in the process of designing a helm (Warhammer 40k Eldar Striking Scorpion, for the record) that I'll eventually run through Pepakura. Tossing up at this stage whether I'll use the resin on cardboard technique or continue working with the EVA foam that I've been dabbling with and just use the templates for patterning. I've got the exterior modeled up and looking pretty schmick, now I'm wondering whether it's necessary to construct the interior geometry too. It's going to eat into my polygon budget fairly significantly.
I'm currently in the process of designing a helm (Warhammer 40k Eldar Striking Scorpion, for the record) that I'll eventually run through Pepakura. Tossing up at this stage whether I'll use the resin on cardboard technique or continue working with the EVA foam that I've been dabbling with and just use the templates for patterning. I've got the exterior modeled up and looking pretty schmick, now I'm wondering whether it's necessary to construct the interior geometry too. It's going to eat into my polygon budget fairly significantly.
Carpathia
Sr Member
Interior geometry (if I'm understanding you correctly) isn't necessary for Pepakura; in fact, it will just make building the helmet more difficult. The exterior geometry of the helmet model should be sufficient to build a physical model, then you can go back after it's hardened and scratch build any interior you'd like.
methadome666
Jr Member
I have question would it be possible to sub out fiberglass and resin for papermache as a strengthener on a helmet?
I am building a helmet for my son and I dont want the smell of resin lingering in his helmet Or maybe if anybody knows of a good way to reduce the time the resin smells for?
I saw a thread of people talking abount using papermache does anyone have pic of their papermache armour works?
I am building a helmet for my son and I dont want the smell of resin lingering in his helmet Or maybe if anybody knows of a good way to reduce the time the resin smells for?
I saw a thread of people talking abount using papermache does anyone have pic of their papermache armour works?
I am not trying to sound like a naysayer, but every few months someone tries to go papier mache and they are excited at first and then toss it because it really is not strong enough to be useful. The big thing holding it back is you still need to smooth the outside, and that's too much physical stress on the papier mache. Most people either buckle and switch back to fiberglass, or go the aqua resin route instead.
As for just sticking with resin, the best two things you can do are: rest it, and then seal it. The resin "mostly" cures in the first day, but it can take up to a week to really waft out the lingering resin fumes, it's incredibly noxious stuff while it is wet, so much that it lingers. After a week, it should be reduced enough, and you can get a heavy duty paint and hose down the inside. This will coat it with a layer of paint that keeps any more from wafting out. What that means though, is you should make sure you finish any resin/bondo/rondo work you want to do to the inside of the helmet. I actually suggest doing a thin layer of rondo over any fiberglass, as bondo tends to not stink as much as resin, so it can help further reduce the fumes. But definitely air out that for a bit and still spray paint the inside.
As for just sticking with resin, the best two things you can do are: rest it, and then seal it. The resin "mostly" cures in the first day, but it can take up to a week to really waft out the lingering resin fumes, it's incredibly noxious stuff while it is wet, so much that it lingers. After a week, it should be reduced enough, and you can get a heavy duty paint and hose down the inside. This will coat it with a layer of paint that keeps any more from wafting out. What that means though, is you should make sure you finish any resin/bondo/rondo work you want to do to the inside of the helmet. I actually suggest doing a thin layer of rondo over any fiberglass, as bondo tends to not stink as much as resin, so it can help further reduce the fumes. But definitely air out that for a bit and still spray paint the inside.
methadome666
Jr Member
Thanks, that was my main concern was that the paper mache was just not rigid enough for the bondo and sanding process... but thinks for the advice on how to reduce the resin smell.
Hello, Im having issues scaling my first piece..I have only attempted the thigh so far, I think im having issues because of how short I am ( 5'1 ) every time i measure my thigh the piece ends up being wayy to small and doesn't get far passed my knee. I have tried the male and female version of the reach thigh pieces from here http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/31200-quot-Halo4-quot-ForgedReclaimer-s-Pepakura-Database but still no luck they are way to small, I have been changing the height.
If it's just a matter of being too small, take the scaled dimensions you used (the too small values) and multiply them by 1.1 on a calculator and enter the new numbers in. This will make it 10% larger, which is a decent stepping size for increasing. It's a bit of guess and check.. if you find your thigh length compared to thigh thickness is too abnormal (Like short and husky, tall and skinny as examples of abnormal proportions) you may need to get the 3d model itself warped to fit your needs, but resizing the pep file by 10% increments should handle most cases.
If it comes to it, you may want to get the foam templates and try it that way, so you have more control over the dimensions for your own needs.
If it comes to it, you may want to get the foam templates and try it that way, so you have more control over the dimensions for your own needs.
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