"Help!" for: Fiberglassing, Resin, & Bondo

[morkar78]

Another question....if I use the resin outdoor, which during the Bostonian winter means at very low temperatures, then I close the piece I'm hardening in a box sealed and I bring it outside to provide a temperature warm enough to make the resin cure....what are the chances that the box full of the gas produced while the resin is curing will become a sort of inflammable bomb?

 

[caddyman]

What are the mixing ratios for rondo? Also, do I use the hardener from the resin or from the bond?

 

[caddyman]

I would be very weary my friend. Polyurethane(the median by which the resin is delivered to the cast) is flammable. While being a bomb? I don't think so. A fire hazard? Quite possibly.

 

[colbs]

You can use the bondo harder or the resin harder or both id recomend just using the bondo hardener

 

[Carpathia]

Another question....if I use the resin outdoor, which during the Bostonian winter means at very low temperatures, then I close the piece I'm hardening in a box sealed and I bring it outside to provide a temperature warm enough to make the resin cure....what are the chances that the box full of the gas produced while the resin is curing will become a sort of inflammable bomb?

So long as you don't add too much heat, you should be fine; just don't heat the piece with an open flame, obviously. The thing to keep in mind is that you don't need to heat the piece to a very high temperature. The minimum recommended temp for using resin and bondo is 40 degrees Fahrenheit. So, if you can rig something up that will raise the temp to about 60, you'll be set. Take a look at this tutorial from Smooth-on...

https://www.smooth-on.com/pages.php?pID=66&cID=11

It's a pretty quick and relatively inexpensive build.

 

[EVAkura]

Another question....if I use the resin outdoor, which during the Bostonian winter means at very low temperatures, then I close the piece I'm hardening in a box sealed and I bring it outside to provide a temperature warm enough to make the resin cure....what are the chances that the box full of the gas produced while the resin is curing will become a sort of inflammable bomb?

I take it you want to bring the sealed box inside so that it will stay warm without giving everyone in the house a splitting headache from the fumes? If this is the case, two facts brought me to my conclusion. First, epoxy does not require oxygen to cure. Putting it in a sealed box will not slow down the process. Second, the curing process creates fumes, not gas. With this in mind, it will not blow up as long as ANY form of ignition is kept far away from the box (assume the box will leak just a wee bit to be on the safe side). Also, as a side note, be extra careful when unsealing the box that no form of ignition is anywhere close by.

 

[morkar78]

Thanks guys! I have to harden the last piece of my armor (the helmet) and I didn't want to wait 4 months to do it...good...it looks like I will not set my house on fire...

 

[caddyman]

Morkar, are you using epoxy resin or polyester resin? If it is epoxy then it is low odor producing and non-toxic. If polyester keep doing what you are doing lol.

 

[morkar78]

Polyerster unfortunately...This is my first work and I discovered the existence of the non toxic resin too late...But I'll definitely switch on the epoxy in future...

 

[caddyman]

You and me both brother…you and me both. I restore cars and play with fiberglass resin all day. However, it is below freezing where I am at and my roommates about killed me after I tried to resin in our dorm, 10/10 will never do again. Anyhow I am like you, will definitely be using epoxy resin in future projects. I'll add you and keep an eye out for your WIP's. Good luck man and Godspeed.

 

[morkar78]

Thanks!!!

 

[Jason 078]

If you want a safe alternative to bondo, you might want to look into this:

Free Form® AIR Lightweight Epoxy Putty. You can mix it with some water to give it the same consistency as bondo and it works like bondo does during it's curing (i.e. you can cut it with a razor blade to smooth it a little). On top of that, it doesn't produce any DEATH-CAUSING odors.

If you are looking for something more along the lines of Rondo (or just resin, for that matter), then I would look at EpoxAmite® 100 Laminating Epoxy for the resin alternative. For Rondo, you use the same thing, but add URE-FIL® 11 which thickens it for brushing on.

 

[morkar78]

This stuff looks cool....is the final result using the Free form AIR the same of using the bondo? I really like the smoothness of the surface of my armor after three/four coats of bondo, but sanding it is a pain...it takes a lot of time and it produces a lot of dust...

Thanks for the links...However in February I'll move in Europe...I hope that this stuff is easily available even there...

 

[Jason 078]

Freeform air is very similar and you can actually get less pitting than with bondo if you "water down" the outermost layer (it acts as finishing putty). Also, depending on how you do it (I use Cereal Kill3r's method) you don't need more than one or two layers before you finish it.

As for the dust, try wet-sanding.

 

[caddyman]

Could anyone please post a link to video explaining how to mix and apply rondo. Preferably the "slush coat" method I have been hearing about. A detailed explanation would also be greatly appreciated.

 

[morkar78]

Ciao Caddyman, look for "Cereal Kill3r Studios" in youtube. These are tutorials made by one of the best armors-maker here at the 405th! There are info about the rondo and also other info you'll find useful!

 

[caddyman]

I have seen his work. The title of "best armor builder around" is definitely undisputed!! I've seen some of his tutorials and he is very thorough. I must have missed his explanation of rondo though. I'll take a second look sometime soon.

 

[morkar78]

It should be this one:

 

[rugg3r 2010]

Hey guys. Im going to katsucon '14, im 245lbs. and dont want to be walking around the WHOLE time lol. Im going to do my armor in card stock and foam padding on the inside. My question: is there a hardener that i could use for the cod piece and thighs to prevent the card stock from cracking, snapping, etc.?

 

[Blorin]

For at least the space diaper I would do a thin layer of rondo to smooth the inside out a little then do 2 or 3 layers of fiberglass to harden it up. For the thighs do the same but really probably only need to do the back sides and maybe the inner sides of the thighs or just do 2 or 3 layers inside the entire thigh armor. That should beef them up enough to handle anytime you need to sit down, also grab some auto trim liner that goes around car doors for any of the sharp edges of your thigh and cod armor sharp edges and dangley bits dont mix to well.